Po Nagar Cham Towers
A space of spirituality, architecture, and community memory
Amidst the vibrant pulse of the coastal city of Nha Trang, Po Nagar Cham Towers (commonly known by locals as Thap Ba) emerges as an ancient realm of memory, preserving the imprints of Cham culture through architecture, beliefs, sculpture, and festivals. This is not only a famous tourist destination in Khanh Hoa but also a sacred space associated with the worship of the Goddess Po Nagar – the Mother of the Land of the Cham people.
Po Nagar Cham Towers is located on Cu Lao hill, which stands over 20m above sea level, with a latest reported area of 17,683.6m2, approximately 2km north of the North Nha Trang Ward. The site is a complex of unique artistic architectural works built by the Cham people, dating from the mid-8th century to the 13th century. This site serves as a religious center for the worship of the Goddess Po Nagar (the Mother of the Land of the Cham people) and has been preserved and developed by the Kinh people as a place to worship the Holy Mother Thien Y (Thien Y Thanh Mau) of the South Central coastal community.
The Main Tower is dedicated to the Goddess Yang Po Inư Nưgar (the Goddess/Mother of the Land of the Cham people); legend has it that she was born from clouds and sea foam. She was the supreme goddess of the ancient Champa kingdom, worshipped in the land of Kauthara, and is also known as Thien Y A Na Thanh Mau in the Vietnamese tradition of Mother Goddess worship. A special feature of the Po Nagar Towers is the cultural harmony between the Cham and Kinh people. The Cham belief in the Mother of the Land was later adopted and 'Vietnamized' by the Kinh people into the worship of Thien Y A Na Thanh Mau within the Po Nagar site. Thus, the Po Nagar Towers are not just a relic of the Cham people, but a shared spiritual space where generations of Khanh Hoa residents and people from elsewhere have placed their trust, gratitude, and hopes for peace.
The location of the towers is very unique: built on Cu Lao hill, near the mouth of the Cai River, overlooking the Nha Trang seascape. It is a confluence of landscape, habitation, commerce, and belief, situated in the ancient region of Kauthara.
Cu Lao hill is surrounded by the Cai River, which the Cham called Yatran (meaning 'Reed River'). On the hill, many centuries-old trees have coexisted with the thousand-year-old towers. From here, visitors can gaze upon Nha Trang with the Cu Huan sea mouth, the Xom Bong Bridge spanning the Cai River (a bridge named after Xom Bong, the location of the sacred 'Bong dance' performed by dancers for the Goddess Po Nagar/Thien Y A Na Thanh Mau during festivals), and Nha Trang Bay with its islands: Yen Island, Hon Tre, Hon Noi, Hon Ngoai, and more.
Mandapa - Where the rituals begin
A place for devotees to pause before the pilgrimage journey
This is where devotees prepare offerings and purify their minds before performing rituals at the Main Tower. The architecture consists of four rows of octagonal pillars (10 large pillars and 12 smaller ones). On the larger pillars, at the same height as the smaller ones, there is a rectangular cavity carved deep into the column, functioning like 'mortise joints' in wooden architecture. Researchers believe these 'mortises' served as support points for crossbeams to hold a roof, which has since collapsed and left no trace.
Previously, the Mandapa also featured two smaller, lower pillars on either side of the entrance steps, aligned with the old tower gate. The gate, Mandapa, and the large tower above form a straight East-West axis. The current Mandapa architecture dates back to the same period as the final construction of the Main Tower, approximately the 11th–12th centuries. From the Mandapa, there are 36 steep, straight stone steps leading up to the temple area. Legend has it that to show reverence to the gods, especially to the Goddess Po Nagar, devotees ascending to the temple for rituals had to bow, and when descending, they had to walk backwards, never turning their backs to the temple. Later, for the convenience of visitors, a stone stairway was added on the southern side of Cu Lao hill.
Main Tower - The heart of the monument
A convergence of architecture, sculpture, and the worship of the Mother of the Land
The Main Tower (Northeast Tower) is the largest in scale, carrying the most characteristic and typical features of a traditional Cham tower. Standing about 23 meters tall, it consists of three parts: the tower base, the body, and the roof. The three-tiered roof tapers towards the top, with each tier being a miniature version of the one below. The tiers are decorated with sacred animals: geese, goats, elephants, and praying ascetics (some refer to them as Apsaras). Above the doorway, a relief carving in the shape of a Bodhi leaf depicts the god Shiva dancing joyfully, one foot stepping on the back of the bull Nandin, accompanied by two musicians playing the flute and cymbals. The relief dates back to the 11th century and is one of the most beautiful remaining examples of Cham cultural sculpture in Vietnam. The tower has four doorways facing East, West, South, and North, but only the East doorway is open; the others are false doors. The East doorway is supported by two stone pillars inscribed with ancient Cham and Sanskrit text.
Inside the tower sits the statue of the Goddess Po Nagar – the Mother of the Land in Cham folk belief, a symbol of fertility, protection, guidance, and abundance. To the local people, this is not only an ancient architectural structure but also a place to entrust their faith, gratitude, and prayers for peace across many generations.
Goddess Yang Po Inư Nưgar
The Mother of the Land of the Cham people
The statue of the Goddess is carved from a single block of granite, sitting in a majestic pose on a lotus-shaped stone pedestal, her back resting against a large Bodhi-leaf-shaped slab. This is a masterpiece of Cham sculpture, harmonizing round sculpture techniques with relief carving. The entire statue and backrest are placed on a large stone Yoni pedestal. With the layout of a Linga as the idol and a Yoni as the pedestal, this forms a complete Linga-Yoni set, representing the union of male and female, creating life, and serving as a sacred object for the Cham people.
To this day, among the remaining Cham temple complexes in our country, there is no other statue of a primary deity depicted with such size and completeness. This highlights the immense value of the statue in terms of religion, culture, history, and art for the Po Nagar Towers site. On either side of the Goddess's altar are two altars dedicated to her two children (Princess Quy and Prince Tri, according to Kinh traditions).
South Tower, Southeast Tower, and Northwest Tower
Connecting the space within the complex
Besides the Main Tower, the Po Nagar Towers complex also includes auxiliary towers with their own architectural and spiritual values. The South Tower is about 18m tall, dates to the 13th century, and is dedicated to the god Cri Cambhu, another name for Shiva. Inside the tower is a Linga-Yoni set, symbolizing the power of creation, destruction, and rebirth in Cham belief. According to Vietnamese folk beliefs, the tower is considered the place of worship for Lord Nam Hai, the husband of the Holy Mother Thien Y A Na.
The Southeast Tower is about 7m tall with a boat-shaped roof, considered an auxiliary structure from a later period, around the 13th century. Inside the tower is a stone Linga-Yoni set, dedicated to the god Sandaka, the son of Shiva. Vietnamese people call this the 'Co' (Parents) Tower, associated with the belief of worshipping the foster parents of the Holy Mother Thien Y A Na.
The Northwest Tower is located behind the Main Tower, is about 9m tall, and has a saddle-shaped roof. The false doors still bear unique figures such as the mythical bird Garuda, the god Kala, and the goddess Indra riding an elephant. Inside the tower is a Linga-Yoni set, dedicated to the god Ganesa, a symbol of wisdom, luck, and happiness. Vietnamese people call it the 'Co Cau' (Children) Tower, dedicated to the two children of the Holy Mother Thien Y A Na.
Po Nagar Festival - A living heritage of the community
Promoting heritage values
Every year, the Po Nagar Festival takes place from the 20th to the 23rd of the third lunar month. It is an occasion for residents and visitors to turn towards the Mother Goddess, participate in traditional rituals, and experience the sacred atmosphere of the heritage.
The festival not only revives the memory of these beliefs but also contributes to connecting the community, preserving cultural identity, and spreading the value of Cham-Kinh cultural exchange and that of other ethnic communities in today's life.
