An Afternoon in Hon Ro

I often enjoy taking a ride to Hon Ro (Nam Nha Trang Ward) on days off or in the afternoon, when the sun is no longer harsh. Going to Hon Ro means encountering a slow-paced, unhurried life.

In the past, this place was pristine, consisting mostly of shrimp ponds. To get to Hon Ro, one had to take a detour along Phong Chau Road (back then, Phong Chau Bridge did not exist either), reach Phuoc Dong, and then loop around. Once Binh Tan Bridge was completed across the Quan Truong River, the Hon Ro residential area gradually took shape from the residents of Xom Con who were relocated here when their former settlement was cleared to build Tran Phu Bridge. Initially, this was just temporary housing. More than 20 years later, when Nguyen Tat Thanh Boulevard was expanded into a route serving trips to Cam Ranh Airport and connecting with many places, Hon Ro became bustling and established a vibrant life of its own.

This afternoon, I rode along Nguyen Tat Thanh Boulevard again, crossed Binh Tan Bridge, and turned left toward Hon Ro. This is a residential area formed from a fishing village, so even though the location has changed, it still carries the rhythm of life of people tied to the sea. Crossing Binh Tan Bridge, I followed Ton Duc Thang Street, one of the two major streets here; the other is Nguyen Van Linh, which runs along the riverbank. Ton Duc Thang Street does not run straight; instead, when hitting the mountain, it curves outward and reaches Hon Ro Port. Being a residential area and a main thoroughfare, many shops cater to local residents along this street. The primary destination is Bach Thai Buoi Street, famous as a bougainvillea street. Bach Thai Buoi Street is about 200 meters long, with 14 bougainvillea trees planted starting in 2000. Over 10 years ago, the rows of bougainvillea bloomed profusely, at a time when there were still few houses along the street and Hon Ro was undeveloped. It was a check-in spot for young people, with many couples choosing it for wedding photos. Returning today, there are fewer bougainvillea flowers and many more houses have been built, so even though the flowers remain along the street, framing beautiful shots has become difficult. Bach Thai Buoi Street and many other streets in Hon Ro are very narrow, only about 5 meters wide. Because the street is narrow, people on this side can pull up a chair to chat with those across the street, and can even hear sounds from across the way or smell cooked rice wafting into their homes.

Hon Ro Market is located on Nguyen Xi Street, featuring an entrance gate and an enclosing fence as if to ensure security. The market has no shortage of goods, yet it disperses before noon, as the residents of Hon Ro prefer crossing the bridge to shop at Binh Tan Market. The pleasure of crossing the bridge to a further market is sometimes just to ride through a few more streets and pick out tastier food, even though prices are the same everywhere.

Arriving at Hon Ro, passing through the small streets leads out to Nguyen Van Linh Street. This road borders the Quan Truong River, and from the embankment, you can look across to the other side. Sometimes, I stop my bike hesitantly, looking up at the rows of trees. This place still bears the deep living atmosphere of people bound to the sea. There are gathered nets, lobster-trapping buoys, and basket boats hauled ashore for repairs. The embankment has no greenery or flower beds, just a clutter of seafaring gear, yet it creates an intimate and familiar space. As the tide recedes, it reveals concrete pillars tethering composite basket boats; every vessel has a basket boat to ferry back and forth, as the boats are moored offshore. Hundreds of fishing boats drop anchor as evening gradually falls. Fishermen prepare for trips near and far out to sea. When the sun rises, Hon Ro fishing port bustles once again with returning boats, and smiles beam across the fishermen's faces when their vessels are brimming with fish...

In the afternoon, Nguyen Van Linh Street turns into a food and drinking area, serving mainly seafood. Starting out with eateries facing toward the estuary, the stalls have now shifted along the riverbank near Binh Tan Bridge. Because this is a peaceful spot with little traffic, the eateries are on the other side of the road while the tables and chairs sit along the riverbank, nestled among green planters. A gentle breeze slips through, carrying the scent of mud as the tide drains, and music playing across the street drifts toward the river. A few times stopping by, a few times sitting by the Hon Ro riverbank to order some food. The eateries serve honestly, and the staff are sometimes not as brisk as those in city establishments. But after all, it's a riverside spot; enjoying the atmosphere is all that matters.

Writing to this point, I am reminded of the days leading up to Tet when I wandered around Hon Ro, coming across verandas setting up stoves to boil banh tet, catching sight of flat bamboo baskets drying ginger and coconut jams, and hearing voices calling out to each other to go to the distant market...

KHUE VIET TRUONG